This will increase the surface in contact with the bed, so the object will stick better. Plus it makes a big platform on which the object can be printed. This way if there is a problem for the first layers, it will just affects the raft and not the object. Stay close to your printer when it is printing the first layer to make sure everything is fine, then once it has been printed go back to the normal speed. Lower the speed for the first layers, for example X0.5 or even lower. If the it is too far, the print will tends to detach. Make sure the hotend is at a correct height from the bed. Earlier this year, we released the first beta of Ultimaker Cura Arachne engine. This is made possible by fundamentally redefining how the inside of a model is generated through adaptive line widths and optimized line positioning. What to do if the object does not stick well to the bed? Our new Ultimaker Cura engine allows you to create parts with ground-breaking quality, strength, and speed. With PLA and the bed at 60☌ it works perfectly. But tends to unstick and you have to change it more often. What type of bed? I have tried the following: To finish I'd like to give you some tips that I found really useful about print bed adhesion. The support distance from the object (see step 6) Therefore I have focused on the parameters that seem the most important for me: Just drag the mouse on one grey tab (for example "Quality"), click on the small gear that appears, and tick or untick the settings you want.Īs you can see, there are a huge amount of settings and it would take days to test everything. In "Print Setup: Advanced" you can add more settings. it has many advanced settings that allows a lot of choices for the print.īellow is an image of what the setting interface looks like.If I have to conclude about Cura 2 and why I am using it: I have also tried Meshmixer and its "tree supports": the branches are interesting but I got some problems because the supports were not placed where they were supposed to. Supports are structures that are not part of the print itself that let you deal with overhangs and bridges with ease, with the only downside being that you end. I have tried Cura 15 (which is actually the former version of Cura 2) but it has way less settings. To find the best support settings I am using Cura 2. Changing the interface distance from the object.In long (because some of you might want to see how I have found these settings), here are all the steps: Interface distance from the object: 0.2mm.In short (because some of you just need the settings), here are the main settings I found to be perfect: The goal is to get the best surface finish, as smooth as possible, and the minimum post-processing to try avoiding sanding.Īlso make sure to read this article, you'll learn many important things about supports. Ultimaker Cura is free, easy-to-use 3D printing software trusted by. I have tested many settings on the slicer software Cura 2, and came out with great results so I'll share them with you. To begin the firmware update process, select Settings > Printer > Manage Printer(s). But it is really a pain in the annoying to search for the perfect settings, so the supports are easy to remove, and the object not deformed by the supports. Supports in 3D printing are essential to print objects with overhanging parts.
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